Travels in Asia: 2005

It's a bit surreal when you realize that every single little molehill surrounding you is basically as high if not higher than the Rockies.  I know it's a bit unfair since the lowest you can get in this country is basically 3500m, but still...

Lhasa was not what I imagined it to be.  Neon lights greeted us when we arrived, huge streets filled with stores resembling Robson but a whole lot dirtier, bathroom tiled buildings...  I think what really makes this city what it is, is the people.  Their devotion is simply amazing as is their simplicity and kindness.  There is always a smile on their face - today I was attacked by a grandma in a tickling match.  Have no idea what she was saying but she was getting a good laugh out of the fact that she was able to poke me yet was able to avoid my pokes.

We expolored the monestaries of Lhasa and surrounding and essentially got to see all the things we wanted.  When I set out there were 4 main thing I wanted to see: Everest, a Monk Debate, a Sky Burial Site and Tibetans Roofing.  We got an amazing look at Everest during our jeep trip.  For the Monk Debate we went to Sera monestary.  The experience was great.  Picture a quite and peacefull monestary and as you walk you hear this loud commotion, clapping and yelling.  Inside a little courtyard hundreds of monks sitting and standing argue amongs each other and every time they make their point on whatever it may be they smack their hands together in an odd modification of a victory dance.  We plopped ourselves in the midst of them and just watched, wishing we could understand what they were saying.

The third thing on the list went way past my expectation.  I knew that these burials were highly private and not open to foreigners or even strangers.  All I wished to see is the site where it takes place.  However our trip to Ganden Monestary (1.5 hours drive from Lhasa) led to much more.  First, while on the high kora we were invited by some pilgirms into their prayer circle as they offered janipur inscence and tsampa to the gods.  We were each given some tsampa to throw up into the wind as they sang and chanted their prayers.  It was a very moving experience.  Then when we were doing the lower kora we walked in on a sky burial that was in progress.  The person who passed away must not have had any family, for there were none there, only a number of tourists sitting at a distance, somberly observing the proceedings.  As gruesome as the sight was, it was very powerful and inspring.  Different cultures have different ways of performing this last right.  This may be one of the most extreme methods, but it is theirs and it is revered by them, hence should be respected by anyone who bares witness to it.

And today we went to the Potala.  The palace is huge and jawdropping from the outside, yet bare, desolate and almost creepy from the inside.  Aside for numerous chapples the hallways are empty, and there is nothign that breathes life into it.  A disappointing experience with the exception of the roofign that we got to see.  Tibetans seem to make the best out of all work, no matter how hard or strenuous. In this particular case they line up with these sticks that they beat against the roof to beat down the sand and flatten the surface.  Simulateously they sing and dance.  Everything is sinchronized.  First the men do their dance continously stomping on the roof to flatten it, then they stop and the woman retort with their song and dance.  Simply a magical sight.

Well... this was a slightly rambling email.  Tired today, still need to pack and tomorrow we're off to Chian proper - Zhongdian.  From there it's off to do a 3 day trek and I hav eno idea when I'll be online again.

Till then,

Kasia