Travels in Asia: 2005

Hey all!

No new statistics unfortunately - although once again we were very smelly and without showers for 5 days.  Yet not much you can do about that when you are above 4000 m and in freezing cold conditions.  At least the cold kills the stench.

We had a blast the last couple of days in Kathmandu.  Hung out with Christoph Wielicki, the first man to summit Everest in winter and the 5th person to summit all 14 peaks above 8000m.  (Not to mention the fact that he is Polish... sorry need to brag a bit).  With him were the producers of the Polish equivalent of the Amazing Race who were preparing for the next seasons show.  So yeah... we had fun, splurged, ate well, drank plenty and just relaxed (but not on our budget - figured if we're around rich Poles we might just as well make use of their wallets).  One night found us coming home at 2am (everything in Nepal except a few bars that cater to foreigners closes at 10pm).  we had to wake up the security guards by banging on the metal covers to let us into our hotel and then having mispalced our key to the room (and them not having any spare ones).  we were fortunate though because we had picked a room on the 5th floor on the corner witha  balcony.  so we ended up climbing out through the hallway window onto the balcony and then found a hole in the mosquite net covering our windows big enough to put our hand through and open up the window so that we could climb in.  It became a bit annoying though when we had to repeat this process 6 times in the morning whenever we wanted to go to the bathroom or leave.  However we ended up finding the key and opening our door... thankfully.  The people in the building opposite us were begining to look at us funny. 

Afterwards they flew out to Poland and we began our journey to Tibet.  Unfortunately at one point or another things had to stop running smoothly... we seemed to have too much luck with that in Nepal and sooner or later it had to run out. 

Well to start, a bus was supposed to pick us up at our hotel at 5:30 am to take us to the border.  We walked down to the reception at 5:25 only to find out that the bus had already left because the receptionist didn't know in what room the two Canadian girls were staying.  Nor did he have any idea of where in the world we were to go now.  Fortunately a guy showed up and made us sprint with all our bags (which for some odd reason seem to be at least 5kg heavier) accross the city chasing the bus. 

So finally we're on it but that's not the end of the problems.  The guy on the bus has our itinerary but only for 7 days rather than 8.  We tell him that that's wrong and all he seems to say is that this is what his boss gave him so it must be correct.  Eventually a phonecall resolves the issue - the boss figured that since it's really cold at Rongbuk monestary we wouldn't want to spend 2 nights there and cut one out of the itinerary.

The bus takes us to the border and Nepali customs goes real smooth and quick.  However we find ourselves wating on the bridge dividing China and Nepal for over 2.5 hours.  Chinese bureaucracy doesn't allow Nepalese guides to take us across the border and our Tibetan ones weren't able to obtain the necessary permits to pick us up because of huge lineups.  Finally though one shows - however he is the guide for the group of 15 going directly to Lhasa.  Ours is still somewhere in some inpronouncable town attempting to get his permit.  So off we go to that town ontly to have to stand in yet another customs line for over 1.5 hours.  Finally we get introduced to our guide who now needs our passports for yet another permit.  He tells us he'll be back in half an hour yet over an hour later he comes back saying the office has closed and we have to spend the night in the border town.  On top of all this he has Paulina down as a guy and our itinerary as a 5 day itinerary directly to Lhasa from where we are to catch a flight back to Kathmandu.  Got to love the communication in this country.

Fortunately things get resolved and the next morning we find ourselves very glad at having paid extra for a private jeep to Everest.  The jeeps only have one bench and then the front seat is able to squish in 2 passengers.  The remaining group of 15 has only 1 guide between them all and only 3 jeeps.  This means that in each jeep there is 6 people (including the driver) and one has 7 - - - including all the baggage increadibly crowded, plus they must travel together which can get highly frustrating with a group that size.  We on the other hand feel like royalty sprawled out in our jeep.  Plus its much quicker to get all the paperwork organzied for 2 people rather than 15.

Our tour takes us from the border town to a town that translates into "Gateway to Hell" - Nyalam.  Somehow however we must have done something right in our lives and our sins must have been forgiven since we were climbing our way out of hell rather than into it. Seriously though, the road was like a road to hell.  Within less than a 20 km stretch it gained 2000m in altitude.  It wove along the very edges of mountains way above gorges up up and further up.  Just absolutely phenomenal.  The Sea to Sky Highway should honestly be a 4 lane road in the state that it is now - there is more than enough room for that.

Our second night was spent at an altitude of 4300m and the third night consisted of a offroad excursion down roads that were barely decipherable amongst all the rocks and dirt.  It was quite an experience but it eventually got us to Rongbuk monestary at 4980 m, only 7 km from Everest Base Camp.  The view was absolutely stunning.  ��It felt like we were able to touch this amazing mountain.  Since the weather was perfect we decided not to spend the night at the monestary and continued on in a freezing cold horse buggy ride to the base camp.  Mind blowing how high these mountains are.  We were at 5200m and yet this peak was simply huge.  Unfortunately we weren't allowed to climb any higher and most of the expedition teams were at advanced base camp at 6500m so we didn't bump into anyone.... (no Polish team nor Canadian team there).  so we hung around, freezing our buts off, slept in an oversized army tent made out of Yak skins and felt quite sick (headaches only) the next morning.  Me less so than Paulina, but still sufficient to make us pack up fast and head down to the monestary.  that small difference of 220m was enough to make us feel better.  Plus on that day Everest was covered by clouds so no real reason to stay longer.

From there the trip continued along the Friendship Highway which for most of its 940km differed very little from the dirt track that we took to everest.  At most it was a very bumpy gravel road that every now and then was wide enough for 2 cars to pass (and this is their national highway).

We stopped in two towns famous for their monestaries and continued along a "CLOSED" stretch of highway to Lhasa having to bribe numerous Chinese officials to let us past the construction areas and at one point taking a detour through the lake to pass by some heavy consturction equipment that was blocking the road.

We arrived exhausted last night at 11pm 2 days ahead of schedual but in time for the holiest day of the Budhist callender.  Planning to stay in Lhasa until the 28th and then fly to Zhondia in China.  I'm sure we'll write something more before then.

I'll try to post some more shots as well... for now the ones from Nepal since I haven't burned the Tibetan ones yet.

Kasia & Paulina

PS:   Liz I'm so jealous.  We so wanted to go to that town, but there's simply no way that we can fit it into our itinerary.  Just not going to happen - too far east.  Hope you're enjoying your trip though.

PS:  does anyone know if you can get Vietnam visas at the border - I don't think so, but am not sure.... how about Cambodian visas - are those obtainable at the border - mom the Cambodia book should say.